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Sleepwalker anche per Nalle Hukkataival
(04/02/2019)
(04/02/2019)
Anche Nalle Hukkataival riesce a risolvere "Sleepwalker", difficilissimo passaggio (8C+) scoperto dallo stesso Nalle un anno fa a Red Rocks e liberato lo scorso dicembre da James Webb.
Per lui è stato necessario adottare un metodo differente in quanto la sua apertura di braccia, inferiore a quella di James Webb e del primo ripetitore, Daniel Woods, non gli permetteva di adottare la loro sequenza.
"Their beta however was of no use for me. Ultimately the boulder is about a friction sloper crux with a barely-there bicycle to gain the slot crimp. Jimmy and Daniel both had the arm-span to bypass this sequence so I was alone fighting my own fight.
This low percentage, friction reliant sequence - combined with my skin issues in the desert - made for low odds to catch the conditions I required. Half the “climbing” days consisted of just showing up and not being able to get any grip on the rock. Or do any climbing.
It all boiling down to weather watching and very little actual climbing put a big dent in my motivation and made me question whether it’s even worthwhile to keep dragging myself out there day after day.
Yesterday I sent it. It was quite anticlimactic. It didn’t seem like anything that I hadn’t already done 10 times. My skin just didn’t fail me that time. I‘m happy it didn’t."
Per lui è stato necessario adottare un metodo differente in quanto la sua apertura di braccia, inferiore a quella di James Webb e del primo ripetitore, Daniel Woods, non gli permetteva di adottare la loro sequenza.
"Their beta however was of no use for me. Ultimately the boulder is about a friction sloper crux with a barely-there bicycle to gain the slot crimp. Jimmy and Daniel both had the arm-span to bypass this sequence so I was alone fighting my own fight.
This low percentage, friction reliant sequence - combined with my skin issues in the desert - made for low odds to catch the conditions I required. Half the “climbing” days consisted of just showing up and not being able to get any grip on the rock. Or do any climbing.
It all boiling down to weather watching and very little actual climbing put a big dent in my motivation and made me question whether it’s even worthwhile to keep dragging myself out there day after day.
Yesterday I sent it. It was quite anticlimactic. It didn’t seem like anything that I hadn’t already done 10 times. My skin just didn’t fail me that time. I‘m happy it didn’t."
(da Instagram)
