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Video: James Webb su Livin' Large
(25/09/2015)

James Webb
"Livin' Large"
Rocklands
Foto © video screenshot
Il video di James Webb durante la prima ripetizione di "Livin' Large" il bellissimo ed esposto blocco di 8C aperto nel 2009 da Nalle Hukkataival a Rocklands.

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Il video sul canale vimeo di Sam T

The Stepping Stone: nuovo 8C per Nalle Hukkataival
(23/09/2015)

"The Stepping Stone" è la nuova linea estrema aperta da Nalle Hukkataival nei Grampians, in Australia.
Un progetto che nell'ultimo mese lo aveva impegnato completamente, a suo parere sicuramente una delle linee più belle da lui aperte, valutabile intorno al V15 (8C), se non addirittura oltre.

"This would be my last try. The wind kicked up. I chalked my hands about a dozen times, like I do when I'm nervous, and pulled on the rock. I was climbing on total autopilot like I have many times through the sections. A series of screams of surprise and relief lead to the sight of my right hand grabbing onto the finishing hold! I climbed the V0 topout like it was V13. Right there, standing on top of that boulder watching the bright orange sunset could be the most memorable climbing experience of my life!
Surely one of the very best lines I've ever opened; The Stepping Stone, somewhere around V15. Who even knows with the upper numbers anymore."
Gabriele Moroni ripete Gliese 581 8B+
(19/09/2015)

Una giornata inizita male termina con lieto fine per Gabriele Moroni, il quale effettua la prima ripetizione di "Gliese 581", 8B+ aperto lo scorso anno da Niccolò Ceria a Champorcher.

"Today has not started the best way! I had to meet up with some friends from Milan but on the way to meet them my car went crazy and I had to bring it to a garage...
I was ready to bail but then I called my dad and he had no problems on giving me his car for the day! So in all of the sudden I was back on my way to Champorcher!
Conditions were perfect, cold and windy and after a good amount of tries, on my very last go of the day, I managed to keep the last big swing and get the first repetition of @nk_ceria testpiece Gliese 581 8b+!!!.."


Il video sul canale vimeo di rivoli

Video: Isabelle Faus su Amandla 8B+
(19/09/2015)

Isabelle Faus
"Amandla"
Rocklands
Foto © video screenshot
Il video della prima salita femminile di "Amandla", famoso 8B+ di Rocklands, recentemente ripetuto da Isabelle Faus.

Il video di Sean Morgan su island.io

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Isabelle Faus in gran forma
(18/09/2015)

Isabelle Faus al top della forma con salite di gran rilievo, ad iniziare dal suo primo 8B+: "Amandla", blocco aperto nel 2005 a Rocklands da Fred Nicole.
Negli ultimi 12 mesi Isabelle ha salito oltre una dozzina di passaggi dal 8A+ al 8B+, compresi tre 8B: "The Shining" e "Nuthin' but sunshine" a Rocky Mountain National Park ed "Epochalypse" a Flagstaff.

Photo Gallery
(da 8a.nu)
Gabriele Moroni ripete Gliese 581 8B+
(12/09/2015)

Una giornata inizita male termina con lieto fine per Gabriele Moroni, il quale effettua la prima ripetizione di "Gliese 581", 8B+ aperto lo scorso anno da Niccolò Ceria a Champorcher.

"Today has not started the best way! I had to meet up with some friends from Milan but on the way to meet them my car went crazy and I had to bring it to a garage...
I was ready to bail but then I called my dad and he had no problems on giving me his car for the day! So in all of the sudden I was back on my way to Champorcher!
Conditions were perfect, cold and windy and after a good amount of tries, on my very last go of the day, I managed to keep the last big swing and get the first repetition of @nk_ceria testpiece Gliese 581 8b+!!!.."


Il video sul canale vimeo di rivoli

Video: Niccolò Ceria in Australia
(11/09/2015)

Niccolò Ceria
"Point Break"
Grampians
Foto © video screenshot
Il video del viaggio di Niccolò Ceria nei Grampians, in Australia (Pt. I).

I boulders:
"Ammagamma"
"On the Beach"
"Point Break"
"Pigeon Superstition"
"Red Mist"
"Cherry Picking"

Il video sul Canale Vimeo di Niccolò.

Dave Graham ripete Spray of Light 8C
(10/09/2015)

A Rocklands Dave Graham ripete "Spray of Light", 8C aperto questa estate da Daniel Woods.
Dave sale anche altri bei blocchi, tra i quali "Rule of Thumbs" 8B+ (prima ripetizione), "Modified Limited Rampage" 8B, "El Corazon" 8B, "Industry of Cool" 8A+/8B, "Art Project" 8A+ e "Flying Guitar Thief" 8A.

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Il video di Nalle Hukkataival su "Rule of Thumbs"
Christof Rauch apre Nussknacker Sit
(10/09/2015)

"Nussknacker Sit" è il nuovo problema aperto da Christof Rauch in Zillertal, Austria.
Il passaggio è la combinazione di due problemi pre esistenti. Partenza da "Black Beauty" per collegarsi a "Nussknacker". Grado proposto 8B+/8C in attesa di ripetizioni.
Da notare che negli ultimi 12 mesi Christof ha salito più di 100 boulders all' 8A in su.

"Such a proud line! After more than 1h of building up a new landing yesterday and falling down on the last hard move last session, I am really happy to get this first ascent!!! Shares the first few moves of "Black Beauty" and climbs through a little transitionpart directly (without the first move) into the "Nussknacker". So it's about 8A into 8B(?).
I would suggest 8B+/C. Maybe it's just a solid 8B+ but definitely the hardest thing I have climbed so far. There is just a little elimination (for me it's logical), without the holds in the slab, otherwise you could climb into the slab and shake out. Took me 7 sessions to put it together. I hope to see some repeats! ;-)"
(da 8a.nu)
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