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Adam Ondra: le sue impressioni su Gioia
(09/02/2011)
(09/02/2011)
Adam Ondra ci racconta le sue impressioni dopo aver provato "Gioia", il blocco più difficile di Varazze, secondo lui valutabile 8C+.
When I first saw "Gioia" on the pictures, I was really amazed and wanted to take a look at it, Christian also was also persuading me many times to come, but I finally found some time this January.
The problem didn't disappoint me at all, it looked even more spectacular and bigger than on the pictures, which is very rare, most times it is the other way round. I managed to send "the stand" quite fast though it is not fully my style and started trying the sit immediately. The beginning is less physical and extremely crimpy, what suits me much better. But I struggled to make all the moves anyway. In the end of the day, I did all the moves but one. But I can understand that doing all the moves is nothing in comparison with linking the full project. There are so many hard moves in a row, you have to try again and again to get right and fast flow, because I don't think there is anyone in the world who is capable to do this problem slowly.
Judging from one day of trying it, I think it is comparable with "The Story of the Two Worlds" in Cresciano, which should be 8C+ according to everyone except the careful proposal by Dave. I am psyched to return for this perfect problem in autumn.
Adam
When I first saw "Gioia" on the pictures, I was really amazed and wanted to take a look at it, Christian also was also persuading me many times to come, but I finally found some time this January.
The problem didn't disappoint me at all, it looked even more spectacular and bigger than on the pictures, which is very rare, most times it is the other way round. I managed to send "the stand" quite fast though it is not fully my style and started trying the sit immediately. The beginning is less physical and extremely crimpy, what suits me much better. But I struggled to make all the moves anyway. In the end of the day, I did all the moves but one. But I can understand that doing all the moves is nothing in comparison with linking the full project. There are so many hard moves in a row, you have to try again and again to get right and fast flow, because I don't think there is anyone in the world who is capable to do this problem slowly.
Judging from one day of trying it, I think it is comparable with "The Story of the Two Worlds" in Cresciano, which should be 8C+ according to everyone except the careful proposal by Dave. I am psyched to return for this perfect problem in autumn.
Adam
