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Toni Lamprecht apre un nuovo 8c+.
(13/03/2009)

Momento magico per Toni Lamprecht che riesce a concatenare le sezioni dure di due suoi boulders, dando origine a "Bokassa's Fridge - Assassin, monkey and man" (8c+).
Nato come una sorta di gioco-allenamento nella vicina area di Kochel, a soli 45 minuti da casa, il nuovo problema diventa così uno dei più impegnativi del mondo.

Altre foto e il video.

Qui il video di una precedente vacanza di Toni ad Albarracin

Il racconto di Toni:
It was a lucky day, when I did my hardest problem so far, because I needed 6 tries on that day and I don't wanna tell you where I fell before succeding. The whole thing started as a training game. There are two hard variations in Kochel that I climbed in the last years, the "Assassin" and "Bokassa's Fridge". Both have a week point avoiding the total straight line. So the training game was to try the straight link-up. I used it as training game, because I had the long-term target to climb a hard project this summer (maybe for the last time - think of my age) in my mind, but I used it to get fit for some boulder-projects, too. Because of my job I can't travel so much anymore and the weather didn't allow a lot of choices bouldering-wise. That's the reason why there's only Kochel (45 min away) left, as one of the only spots, that is try - no matter how ugly the weather is.
I sort of trained in the straight-project after I couldn't do any moves on other boulder-projects, just to get strong again. That's what I did last autumn. It was the first time since years without a winter break for me and although I broke two crucial holds (caused by some inflative weight-gain around christmas) I really liked trying this thing. I snapped a little edge and a sidepull, leaving a "real" new project. After an injury in Ticino (I fell really bad on my a... and injured the sacral-bone) I got into that health-healing trip, avoiding alcohol and bad food. I tried bouldering and of course I tried THE project - managing to do it in 3 parts. But the injury didn't get better in the first 4 or 5 weeks, because I never really stopped bouldering and in the end of January I got really painfull Ischias-problems as well. After a two weeks break I started again. Almost 10 kilos lighter and without the pain in my back my climbing improved really fast and I did the thing with one rest mid of February. I climbed a few other projects at home and in albarracin and when I came back it seemed the right time to attack it seriously.
It is hard to compare "Bokassa's Fridge-Assassin, Monkey and man" to other climbs, because for me it started as a game and ended (after some holds changed) as the new bouldering-highlight in front of my home. I wouldn't consider it as a great line if it would be anywhere else, but at home it is something that you can try every day. It has nice, powerfull and of course long moves along a 6m high prow and the rock is always try. What else can you expect, if you don't have the time to drive to new places and don't want to go to the gym. It just happens, that you climb things like this one... . The name is similar to the climb a combination of the two "old" boulder.
E9
27 Crags
Il Risuolatore
Samsara
WildClimb
Kinobi
King Rock
Varazze Core Climber